CLEARING UP WITH COSMETICS
Acne is a major player in skin inflammation, and companies are now infusing acne-fighting ingredients into their formulations, creating dual-role cosmetics.
Coleus oil has recently been studied as a new ingredient for the cosmeceuticals world. The oil is derived from the roots of Coleus forskohlii, an herb belonging to the mint and lavender family and a native to India, Burma and Thailand.
The oil�s antimicrobial properties were recently discovered, and it has been shown to be useful in topical preparations. Muhammed Majeed, Ph.D., founder, Sabinsa Corp., said: "A specific composition of the oil, prepared by a proprietary patented process, was found to be particularly effective against Propionibacterium acnes, the microorganism implicated in acne. In addition, this composition was found to be active against other microbes known to be associated with skin infections and eruptions."
Studies have found coleus oil to "more effectively inhibit the growth of skin pathogens including Propionbacterium acnes, associated with acne; Staphylococcus aureus, a bacterial strain found in infected wounds and skin eruptions including acne; Staphylococcus epidermidis, a bacterial strain occurring in a variety of opportunistic bacterial skin infections and in acne, than the well-known tea tree oil" (Nishijima et al. J Dermatol., 2000).
Companies have found coleus extract is safe to use in cosmetic formulations; it does not irritate the skin; and its pleasant aroma easily blends with a range of compositions.
TRIED AND NEW
In keeping with the consumer demand for effective formulas that fight inflammation, companies are continuously developing and researching new and innovative ingredients.- Broccoli Sprout Extract�Researchers found the degree of skin redness caused by UV rays, an index of the inflammation and cell damage caused by UV radiation, was markedly reduced in broccoli sprout extract-treated skin. Unlike a sunscreen, the extract works inside cells by increasing the production of protective enzymes that defend against UV damage. The protection lasts for several days, even after the extract is no longer present on or in the skin (Fahey et al. John Hopkins University, Oct. 2007).
- D-Gamma-Tocopherol�D-gamma-tocopherol is a form of vitamin E that lightens skin, reduces inflammation and provides antioxidant protection. Found in high concentrations in corn, soybean and cottonseed oil, it provides distinct benefits that set it apart from alpha-tocopherol, a commonly used cosmetic ingredient. D-gamma-tocopherol�s ability to protect against UV and other environmental factors makes it suitable for anti-aging products, skin lightening products, pre- and post-sun treatments and body creams.
- Baobab�The fruit of African-based baobab tree (Adansonia digitata) has been used to treat fever, diarrhea, dysentery, malaria, smallpox and inflammation. The seed�s endocarp has naturally occurring omega-3, -6 and -9 fatty acids, amino acids in the pulp, as well as vitamin C, A, B1, B2 and B6. Cosmeceutical companies are now looking to include its nutrient-rich seed oil, leaves and bark in formulas for creams, masks, shampoos, conditioners, lotions and exfoliants.
- White Birch Bark�Traditionally a folk medicine, white birch bark (Betula pendula) is high in betulinic acid, said to reduce inflammation mediator enzyme production, decrease inflammation from UV rays, soothe skin and decrease stinging. It is typically recommended as an ingredient for sensitive skin care, anti-acne formulas, irritated scalp care and sun care, as well as insect bite formulas.
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Soothing Skin Inflammation with Botanicals
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